Flowers bloom, the air warms, the carefree Italians are out and about, and the tourists have yet to arrive, really. April is one of the best times to see this famed city, alive and lovely after its winter nap.

Those who can afford to people the streets without a concern for making a buck - or a lira - seem to be many, or perhaps it's that on a day such as today, crystal-clear skies reflected in the waters of the river bisecting the ancient city, no one wants to be indoors and working.  Scooters are buzzing by, people are sitting in cafes drinking, smoking, chatting, and those who are walking seem to be at a leisurely pace.  Among them is a statuesque figure in a black Givenchy pantsuit, atop her head a stylish, wide-brimmed hat the likes of which is rarely seen outside of Europe.  Her eyes are hidden behind sunglasses, but her expression is one of pleasant ennui.  Walking beside her, on a leash of course, is a Sicilian mastiff who looks cheerful but quite ready for business.

She pauses by an espresso counter to order a cappuccino, and the dog sits against her long leg, watchful.